A Closer Look at and Reflections on the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition



When Ulysse Nardin debuted the Diver [AIR] diving watch at Watches and Wonders 2025, the watch world held its breath. A bold statement: the world's lightest mechanical diver's watch. Weighing just 52 grams with its strap, this watch, a truly lightweight "little creature," successfully overturns our perception of the fusion of haute horlogerie and professional diving equipment. Limited to 30 pieces, the Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition builds on an already exceptional heritage with vibrant blue accents, a tribute to Ahmed Seddiqi's 75 years of distinguished success in luxury retail in the Middle East.

This achievement by Ulysse Nardin goes far beyond clever marketing hype. This watch required reimagining the material at the molecular level, removing every gram of excess weight while maintaining the structural integrity of its 200-meter water resistance. The result challenges the traditional perception of a dive watch on the wrist.

Dial Architecture
The dial of the Diver [AIR] Seddiqi dive watch breaks with traditional dive watch markings. Eschewing the opaque dial filled with luminescent hands and hour markers, Ulysse Nardin employs a minimalist, skeletonized construction that fully reveals the underlying mechanism. This design philosophy, pioneered with the 2021 Diver X Skeleton dive watch, has been refined to a near-pure state.

The rhodium-plated hour markers, each coated with white Super-LumiNova, capture light with metallic precision, ensuring nighttime legibility. The vibrant blue Super-LumiNova on the hands complements the restrained color scheme, creating a striking visual depth. The hour and minute hands are contrasting black, while the second hand is white with the signature blue luminescent material. This color strategy unifies every visual element of the watch—from the dial indices to the bezel insert—to create a unified brand identity that celebrates Seddiqi's heritage while embodying Ulysse Nardin's contemporary design language.

The dial's skeletonized design allows for a clear view of the movement beneath. Without traditional dial bridges to obstruct the view, the vital chronograph components float above the mechanism. This sense of transparency demands meticulous finishing of every visible surface of the movement, as mediocrity has no place to hide.

The CarbonFoil bezel is crafted entirely from 100% upcycled carbon fiber, with luminous hour markers also in vibrant blue. Its concave profile and unidirectional rotating design meet ISO 6425 standards for diver's watches, while the random weave of the carbon fiber pattern ensures subtle visual variation from piece to piece.

Calibre UN-374
The movement at the heart of this watch represents a significant evolution of the UN-372 caliber found in the Diver X Skeleton. Ulysse Nardin didn't simply refine an existing structure; it fundamentally redesigned it, achieving extreme lightness without sacrificing reliability.

The movement's bridges and mainplate are crafted from 90% recycled titanium, comprising 199 components and set with 21 jewels. This recycled titanium, sourced from the Swiss biomedical industry by TiFast, a leading European titanium producer, in collaboration with thyssenkrupp, is recycled. This isn't recycling for marketing purposes; the material's properties, required for surgical implants, translate directly to horological applications where a high strength-to-weight ratio is crucial.

The most striking element is the flying barrel layout. To reduce weight, the traditional top plate has been removed, leaving the mainspring barrel in a flying shape. Its top and bottom are skeletonized, leaving behind spoke-like supports resembling those of an automobile wheel. Despite this skeletonization, the barrel still offers a 90-hour power reserve and oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour).

The movement's visual dominance is dominated by an oversized silicon balance wheel. Silicon's properties (presumably well-known by now: anti-magnetic, resistant to temperature fluctuations, and low-friction) have made it the material of choice for Ulysse Nardin since pioneering its use in watchmaking decades ago. The escape wheel and pallet fork are crafted from upcycled silicon, continuing the brand's commitment to performance and environmental responsibility. These components are undecorated in the traditional sense, as silicon cannot be adorned with Côtes de Genève or perlage. Instead, the material's crystalline structure lends it an understated beauty.

The rotor, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, bears the striking blue UN logo, a color that recurs throughout the watch. The open barrel allows for a visual feast for the eyes when the mainspring is wound, a rare sight in watches typically concealed within sealed barrels.

The finishing of the titanium bridges adheres to the conventions of contemporary sports watches rather than the traditional styles of fine watchmaking. The surfaces are brushed and chamfered, with polished interior angles where appropriate. However, this movement lacks embellishments such as a hand-engraved balance cock or heat-treated blued screws. Its aesthetic is primarily based on structural simplicity and mechanical transparency.

To withstand shocks up to 5000g, the movement's construction underwent extensive testing, a remarkable achievement considering the significant reduction in material usage. This required finite element analysis and iterative prototyping to identify stress points and reinforce them while avoiding unnecessary weight. The resulting movement weighs less than 10 grams, yet meets the durability standards required of professional diving instruments.

Case Construction
The Diver [AIR] Seddiqi's 44mm case embodies a mastery of material engineering. Weighing a total of 52 grams (46 grams without the strap), the watch features a modular design that incorporates three different materials, each chosen for its specific performance characteristics.

The case center, bezel, screw-down crown, and caseback are all crafted from 90% recycled titanium. This forms the core structure of the watch's 200-meter water resistance. Recycled titanium maintains the same mechanical properties as virgin material while reducing its environmental impact, a principle incorporated throughout the watch's manufacturing process.

The case sides, including the lugs, are constructed from a Nylo-Foil composite material composed of 60% recycled fishing nets and 40% recycled carbon fiber. This unique blend provides the necessary strength for the strap attachment points while significantly reducing weight, far exceeding that of pure titanium. The material's slightly textured surface contrasts with the polished titanium case, adding visual interest.

The concave rotating bezel is made from CarbonFoil, crafted from 100% recycled carbon fiber. Reportedly sourced from retired IMOCA sailboats, this material cleverly connects ocean racing with the craft of diving watches. The random weave inherent in the forged carbon fiber process creates a unique pattern on each bezel, resulting in subtle variations between the 30 watches, even with identical specifications.

The case measures just 14.7mm thick, maintaining a relatively slim profile for a 44mm dive watch. However, the skeletonized dial and lightweight construction create a more three-dimensional visual effect. The crown guard is integrated into the case structure and features a vibrant blue color that runs throughout the design.

Both the mirror and caseback are sapphire crystals. The domed mirror protects the dial, while the flat, round mirror is set into the screw-down display caseback. The skeletonized movement is visible through the caseback, which is inscribed with "75" in honor of Seddiqi's anniversary. This subtle inscription distinguishes the limited edition from the standard Diver [AIR] watch without overpowering the original.

The watch is available with two strap options: a bright blue stretch fabric strap with a Velcro closure, and a white rubber strap with a folding clasp in black ceramic and black PVD titanium. The stretch strap brings the watch's total weight to 52 grams, while the white rubber strap is slightly heavier but offers a distinct aesthetic. Both straps blend seamlessly with the case design, with the 22mm lug width harmoniously proportioned to the 44mm case diameter.


The Diver [AIR] Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition embodies the essence of contemporary watchmaking: combining material science, environmental awareness, and skeletonized Haute Horlogerie in a professional tool watch. Two decades of research into advanced materials have culminated in a watch that weighs roughly the same as a standard leather strap.

Ahmed Seddiqi's partnership with Ulysse Nardin is more than a commemorative gesture. For 75 years, Seddiqi has pioneered watch appreciation in the Middle East and fostered a watch culture in a region that has become a hub for luxury retail. This limited edition, limited to 30 pieces, offers collectors a fresh take on the coveted Diver [AIR], featuring personalized details that are deeply connected to the brand's heritage.

This watch is distinguished from the standard Diver [AIR] by the vibrant, uniform blue color that permeates every element: from the Super-LumiNova coating on the hands and dial to the bezel indexes, elastic strap, crown guard, and even the side plates. This color consistency elevates what could have been a simple color scheme into a cohesive design statement.

The Diver [AIR] concept itself embodies Ulysse Nardin's bold fusion of diverse areas of traditional watchmaking. The brand combines skeletonized high-end watchmaking techniques with ISO-certified diver's watch functionality to create what they claim is "the world's lightest mechanical diver's watch." Weighing a mere 52 grams, the watch's lightness itself conveys weight, or rather, its lightness.

Whether this extreme lightness is driven by practical diving needs or primarily a technological breakthrough remains a question for every potential owner. What's undeniable is the rigorous engineering required to reduce the case's weight without compromising its 200-meter water resistance and 5,000g shock resistance. This isn't simply a cased-out movement housed in a hollow case; it's a systematic reimagining of dive watch construction, rejecting conventional wisdom.

Reference 3743-170LE-3A-SED_OA joins a limited series of retailer-exclusive editions, celebrating a long-standing partnership and offering collectors a truly unique experience. Limited to 30 pieces, it guarantees exclusivity without sacrificing rarity. Its vibrant blue logo contrasts strikingly with the standard orange and white versions.

For watch enthusiasts who appreciate the seamless integration of technical watchmaking and environmental responsibility, the Diver [AIR] Seddiqi holds a special appeal. A 90% titanium movement and case components, an upcycled silicon escapement, recycled fishing net case parts, and carbon fiber salvaged from ocean-racing yachts combine to create a material story that transcends fashion sustainability and embraces true material innovation.

Ultimately, this watch explores whether we still need the substance of a dive watch, and whether weight equates to quality in our subconscious assessments. Ulysse Nardin believes the answer is probably no, as strength and lightness can coexist, and transparency need not sacrifice water resistance. The Diver [AIR] Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition embodies this philosophy in a striking blue.

Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition Technical Specifications
Reference: 3743-170LE-3A-SED_0A, Price: CHF 39,000, Limited to 30 pieces worldwide. Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons 75th Anniversary Exclusive Watch

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds
Movement

UN-374 Caliber
Automatic winding
199 components
21 jewels
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour)
Power reserve: 90 hours
Flying drum construction with hollow dial
Oversized silicone balance wheel
Escape wheel and anchor made from recycled silicon
90% recycled titanium bridges and mainplate
Shock resistance: 5,000g
Rotor with vibrant blue UN logo
Case

Case diameter: 44 mm
Case thickness: 14.7 mm
Materials: 90% recycled titanium (case center, bezel, crown, case back), nylon foil (lugs and sides - 60% recycled fishing net, 40% upcycled carbon fiber), carbon fiber foil bezel (100% recycled carbon fiber, sourced from decommissioned IMOCA Sailboat

Sapphire crystal (front, domed)
Sapphire crystal case back with personalized "75" transfer
Screw-down crown with bright blue crown guard
Water resistance: 200 meters (ISO 6425 certified)
Unidirectional rotating bezel with concave profile
Weight: 46 grams (without strap), 52 grams (with elastic strap)
Dial

Skeleton dial construction
Rhodium-plated hour markers with white Super-LumiNova
Black hour and minute hands with vibrant blue Super-LumiNova
White second hand with vibrant blue Super-LumiNova
Bezel indexes with vibrant blue Super-LumiNova
The bezel features a random-woven carbon fiber pattern (each piece is unique).
Dimensions and Weight

Lug Width: 22 mm
Total Weight with Elastic Strap: 52 grams
Total Weight without Strap: 46 grams
Movement Weight: Less than 10 grams
Strap

Vivid blue elastic fabric strap with hook-and-loop clasp (included)
White rubber strap with black ceramic and black PVD titanium folding clasp (included)